Wow, awesome weekend, and I'm too fried to write about it.

Aug. 3rd, 2008 | 11:50 pm

Drove out Friday to Spokane for SpoCon, a new SF convention. Lovely weather.

Nothing much was happening Friday afternoon, so I went to the local climbing gym, Wild Walls, which has two staggeringly tall and beautiful pinnacles constructed inside a turn-of-the-century armory, which by the size of it was designed for storing steampunk ICBMs. The routes were set quite differently from Stone Gardens's -- longer moves, bigger footholds, and a lot of liebacks. If I knew more about Spokane climbing I could maybe draw some conclusions about gyms designing their routes to reflect the local crags; but I'm not sure that's justified.

The con itself was great -- the attendees were an entirely new crew to me, after so many years of attending cons out here on the coast. Inland really is a different world in a lot of ways. I fell in with [info]tobybishop/[info]louisemarley and we had dinner and talked a bunch; also spent a little time with the eternally charming super-smart Mark Ferrari.

Today I had a reading at three, so I went climbing before. (A week ago, [info]avt_tor answered my plea online for someone in Spokane to climb with by hooking me up with [info]felicitoussk8er (aka Sharon) and her husband Steve, both experienced and amiable climbers.) They were incredibly nice -- Steve took me to Minnehaha Park, crags to close to Spokane that you can see downtown from there. I climbed three routes and loved them all -- the rock very similar to Cascades granite.

Steve and I both got sunburnt, but he got me back with twenty minutes to spare before my reading. I washed off in the bathroom, pulled on fresh jeans and a white blouse (the antithesis of the ripped cutoffs and filthy cross-back I wore all day), and read to a surprisingly large audience. John Dalmas came! And told me he loved the story (I read "26 Monkeys, Also The Abyss"). Then dinner with Steve and Sharon and C.J. Cherryh and Jane Fancher, and then four and a half hours home.

I loved Spokane, loved Steve and Sharon, loved everything about it. Now I want to go back!

The routes, just for reference later.
  • Bat Crack -- pretty little crack climb up a slab, smooth and easy, toprope, flashed 5.7, Minne grades are old-school, so this was harder than a 5.7 at the Exits -- maybe a 5.8? It was pretty easy, though.

  • Star Baby -- even prettier friction slab 5.8; the route can go either to the left or right of the two bolts, I stayed to the right, then traversed over to the left when the holds petered out; awesome overhanging crack start.

  • Dihedral, a 5.9, which I sucked at -- it starts with the same 12 feet that Star Baby does, but I just could not get it working a second time; I ended up falling and penduluming six feet to the left, so I climbed from there. Hit what was the crux for me, and could NOT get it. I was shaking from muscle fatigue, and it was really hot, and I kept either losing my nerve or just flat failing to get over a ledge. I did finish it, though I felt as though I was ugly-ass awkward all the way up -- and after such graceful earlier climbs!


Now I'm home and listening to my cat eat.

I really haven't posted that much lately. Status quo in my life is overwhelmingly positive, which I don't always think to tell people.

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Comments {10}

the laughing leaping water

from: [info]minnehaha
date: Aug. 4th, 2008 08:36 am (UTC)
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I already knew they have a park called Minnehaha there.

K.

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from: [info]e_cunningham
date: Aug. 4th, 2008 10:23 am (UTC)
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Sounds like a great weekend. Spokane is wonderful. I visited there a few years back during a book tour, which happened to fall in the middle of lilac season. I haven't seen a town that devoted to a flowering tree since cherry blossom season in D.C.

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embereye

from: [info]embereye
date: Aug. 4th, 2008 11:45 am (UTC)
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Since the reasons for not posting on LJ are often that either things are so terrible that it's too hard to post or things are good and you're enjoying things too much to bother posting... it's good to know that you're in the latter group! Enjoy it!

Also, all of your climbing stories makes me want to go find someplace in New York to learn about this stuff. Sounds like your weekend was pretty great!

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Kij

from: [info]kijjohnson
date: Aug. 4th, 2008 07:00 pm (UTC)
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Are you in NYC? There are some good gyms for learning there (or most cities, anymore. But you're also in the land of the Gunks, New Paltz, etc. You have amazing climbing out there.

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embereye

from: [info]embereye
date: Aug. 6th, 2008 08:01 pm (UTC)
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Ooo... Gunks/New Paltz, eh? I'm currently in NYC so should probably do investigating for learning and finding climbing pals before wandering off upstate. :)

This is being added to my list of new stuff to do along with my desire to learn Krav Maga and Capoeira. I'm all over the place!

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WPAdmirer

from: [info]wpadmirer
date: Aug. 4th, 2008 03:50 pm (UTC)
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Sounds like you had a great time. There's a rock climbing gym here in Gainesville. Being terrified of heights, I've never been in it. However, if you do come here next summer, I promise to scout it out before you arrive.

WP

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Weaselmom

from: [info]weaselmom
date: Aug. 4th, 2008 08:14 pm (UTC)
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Did you get through the end of the story without crying?

Welcome back!

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Arian

from: [info]arian1
date: Aug. 4th, 2008 10:29 pm (UTC)
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I saw some chick in the X-Games hang upside down from a hold with her toes. It made me think of you. :)

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felicitoussk8er

from: [info]felicitoussk8er
date: Aug. 5th, 2008 12:32 am (UTC)
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"I loved Spokane, loved Steve and Sharon, loved everything about it. Now I want to go back!"

Kij, we loved YOU and can't wait for you to return! SQUEEE!


BTW, most of my SpoCon report (including pics) is now posted to Shejidan. I'm still working on Day 3, including your reading & dinner with you. Anyone can read Shejidan without registering -- but if you register, you can then see the colors, icons, etc. Just let me or another mod know if you register -- PM or email any Assassin's Guild. After registration, your membership must be validated or you will be unable to read a thing! We were forced to do this to keep out 'bots who register, then post pr0n.

http://z11.invisionfree.com/Shejidan/index.php?showtopic=1179&st=15

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the girl with a patch of sky on her arm

from: [info]vixyish
date: Aug. 7th, 2008 11:00 pm (UTC)
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It was delightful to meet you! I wish there'd been time to actually talk. :) Alas, I seemed to be scheduled on panels opposite everything of yours, including your reading (*whine*).

Hope our paths cross again at another con sometime. Or, y'know. Somewhere in Seattle. :)

-- Vixy (of Vixy & Tony)

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